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Pridružen/-a: 17.01. 2017, 09:11
Prispevkov: 71
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 Objavljeno: 14 Feb 2017 07:01 Naslov sporočila: SuzyNYFW: Altuzarra - Bringing Heart And Art To A Disruptive |
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Swelling, oval statues covered in moss and lichen dwarfed the runway at Altuzarra. They sent a message of hidden beauty, historic gardens and manicured elegance - and so did the clothes in this Autumn/Winter 2017 collection.
But this was not a fairy tale spun by a young designer, his background divided between his childhood in France and his grown-up life in America. Joseph Altuzarra wants to enrich his growing business across the world with clients who appreciate the craftsmanship and visual depth of his work.
Altuzarra's look had been influenced by paintings or elements of the past.
"On the one hand I wanted to do something that would just be a pleasure to people - a feast for the eyes," said the designer.
"What's happened politically has been more emotional than economically disruptive. It has been a really strange time, not just for us. I went to London just after Brexit and I was in London the night of the American election. It’s like we are living through a TV show.
"What I want to do is not escapism, but bringing in some heart and some art," he continued.
Altuzarra's balancing act between past, present and future was achieved by taking plus size formal dresses in lush velvets and embossed or embellished fabrics and pitting them against hefty boots on models who stomped out as if warriors for women's power. It made for a strange combo, sometimes seeming too aggressive for the clothes.
Yet this plunge into the border of the Mediaeval and Renaissance eras could be startlingly beautiful: a tailored coat with embroidered frogging, or a pinafore dress worn over a diamond patterned sweater and, at the waist, a criss-cross decoration seen in ancient paintings - and frequently on this runway.
Elements of the historical included a trouser suit in plush velvet that looked more royal court than streetwise with embellishment imbedded in fur.
As I was shown the mood board of references, I understood the way that the Altuzarra look had been influenced by paintings or elements of the past, even if it was only a frill-edged white collar or a tracery of miniature gilded baubles.
"I started looking at northern European Renaissance painting and I was interested in that jump after the Middle Ages when portrait painters became interested in what people actually looked like," Altuzarra said.
"I wanted to do something inspired by the complexity of that - the costume and the colour but also the down-to-earth-ness. So there is a richness and a feeling of being very regal. But there is also a reality too, because all the clothes are worn with these very pragmatic boots, flat, so all the girls look as if they’re walking down the street."
Sounds complex? Sometimes it seemed too much so for today's world. But it was also a pleasure to see such workmanship, rare in American fashion shows. And there was a feeling that Joseph Altuzarra has an empathy with his uptown clients in an era when clear vision is essential to success.
Read more:http://www.marieprom.co.uk/plus-size-prom-dresses |
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